Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
