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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. But, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.